Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

My (inevitable) D35 replacement

4K views 37 replies 18 participants last post by  stu1021 
#1 ·
So, after 5 years running my built D35 (ARB, 4.56 gears) on borrowed time with all the extra weight and horsepower in the YJ it conveniently blew while my wife was driving it to the grocery store - "What did you do to it honey?".

The cross shaft sheared in the spider gears and made a solid axle out of it. Can't figure how to get it apart unless I start cutting the ARB case apart with the torch.

I scored a Ford 8.8 from an explorer with disc brakes and a Solid cover for $300 on the local Craig's list so here we go.

I have stripped the 8.8 (anyone looking for a Trac-Loc carrier with 3.73 ring and pinion?).

I have ordered spring perches, u-bolt kit, 4.56 gear set, master rebuild kit, e-brake hardware kit, and another ARB for the 8.8. I shopped around and should have about $1600 into the project unless I can sell some of the used parts that I don't need.
 
#4 ·
Don't know how I would get the rest of the center shaft out of there since it is bent and none of the holes are lined up anymore. Thought I could salvage the shafts for someone who needs spares or the 4.56 gear set but I might just have to sell the whole thing to the local scrap guy.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
New axle is quite a bit beefier beside the old one. The Solid cover was a nice bonus on the purchase. Rear disk brakes will be a welcome upgrade too.
 
#8 ·
I know, but when I wanted to regear the Jeep originally to 4.56 a guy at a shop in PA sold me the D35 with the ARB and 4.56 gears installed for $400 plus he gave me $100 trade in on my old D35 so I jumped on it. It did last me 5 years but I always knew it was the weak link in the jeep. Kinda surprised it was the ARB that detonated and not something else though.
 
#13 ·
Joe,
There were no warning signs from the ARB. The retainer appeared to be undisturbed and I thought it was backing out normally but turned out it was sheared as only about 1/3rd of it came out and the rest remained in the case. 7 or 8 of the case end screws had sheared due to the twisting of the case but the heads of those were rattling around in the bottom when I opened it up. About 1" of the main center shaft sheared off and came out of the case. The rest appears to be bent since the end with the retaining screw is still where it belongs and you can clearly see in the pics that the spider gears are not where they are supposed to be. A tech at ARB told me that a dead blow hammer and a big punch on the end of the main center shaft would probably work to shear the remaining retaining screw since it is small and brittle but I don't know that the shaft has anywhere to go since everything is twisted up inside. Haven't had time to fool with that yet.
 
#12 ·
Welcome to the 8.8 club.

I am really wanting to put a selectable locker in when I finish school and get a real job. I drive my YJ around town quite a bit and it would be nice to have the open diff around town. Of course I've been riding on a lunchbox locker in the rear for years. I guess I'm just getting old.

Keep us posted on the 8.8 install.
 
#16 ·
Finally got some more time to work on this today. I got the old spring perches cut off and ground the tubes smooth and clean to weld the new perches and shock mounts. Slid the axle under the jeep and mocked everything up. Tacked the spring perches in place. That was it for this evening.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Looking great!
I still can't believe that I didn't blow up my d35 before I did my 8.8 swap. I got that thing hopping good on 35s and it just took it like a champ!

Word of advise- Depending on what shock mounts you went with, when you mock it up make sure your shocks have enough travel left in them! I raised my shock mounts a bit with the RuffStuff mounts and ended up loosing 100% of my shock uptravel. :brickwall:
I had to order new shock mounts and a Teraflex shock bar to fix the problem. In my defense, my daughter broke her arm the day I did my swap and my head wasn't in the game, so, just pay attention :D

Cheers!
 
#20 ·
Thanks for that advice Sparrows. I had noticed that it could be a problem. My shocks are for 4" of lift and I think my 4" RC springs have sagged a bit so I am not so sure that I had a lot of up travel left with the old set up but it is definitely figuring in to my plans for the location of the new mounts. I am using the ones that came in the 8.8 swap kit from East Coast Gear Supply. I will end up fabbing up some custom bump stops to prevent bottoming out the shocks or the tires from contacting the top of the wheel wells.
 

Attachments

#21 ·
So today I pulled the mocked up axle back out from under the jeep and welded up the spring perches, shock mounts, and bump stops. While I was at it I tacked the axle tubes to the center section as well. Then I mocked up the brake lines. I decided to keep the Jeep center hose set up since I had an extra length stainless braided hose installed previously. The vent nipple from the Dana axle fit right into the Ford. I needed to ditch the "Y" line on the left side so I picked up another right side soft line and a couple of steel lines everything went together pretty easy. I welded some tabs to the bump stops to mount the soft lines. After that I removed the brakes again and cleaned everything (about an hour with the wire wheel on my angle grinder) and laid down a coat of primer. That was it for today.




 
#24 ·
Nice work on documenting your progress. I have the 8.8 but need to source the parts before I tear into it.

What brand gears and size? Do you have a 4 or 6 squrriels?

Keep updating. I subscribed.
 
#25 ·
What brand gears and size? Do you have a 4 or 6 squrriels?
I have a 4.3L Chevy Vortec motor and 4L60E auto tranny with a hybrid Chevy S10/Jeep NP231 transfer case. Tom Woods CV rear drive shaft. 4.56 gears.
So far I purchased:

Ford 8.8 rear with Solid rear cover, brakes, ebrake cables - Craigslist $300

8.8 install kit (spring perches, shock mounts, u-bolts, etc.
freeze plug to eliminate ABS sensor
8.8 disc pads
8.8 ebrake shoes
8.8 ebrake hardware kit - East Coast Gear $210
(w/10% Pirate discount)

4.56 ring and pinion set
Master install kit
outer axle bearings/seals - Engine Rebuilders Whse $219

ARB locker for 8.8 - Parts Mike $878
(includes shipping)

Misc. Brake lines/hardware - local Advance Auto $30

Joy of doing it yourself - priceless

BTW, I briefly considered letting East Coast Gear do all the work and ship me a complete bolt in axle but it would have cost about $2500 delivered. So far I am still about $900 ahead.
 
#26 ·
Amen, my brother. I could pay someone to do it but doing the job yourself is the priceless pleasure and satisfaction.

Plus, its an excuse to buy more tools.

Carry on.
 
#27 ·
Pretty *****in deal on the d35+arb+4.56 combo. Getting 5 yrs out of that is a pretty sweet deal imo. Wont have to worry too much about the 8.8.
Btw, dont forget to weld the tubes to the housing (cast steel). And ummm, i dont know if its the picture or not and i hate to be a nazi about it but i would reconsider those welds on those perches. Maybe grind those down and give it another go. I dont think that ur welder is set up correctly for the job. Not trying be an ***, im just lookin out for you.
 
#28 ·
No worries, I am happy to take advice. When you look straight on all you see are the blobs where I tacked the corners - at night, laying on my back under the Jeep. Had a tough time getting a good strike. As far as the set up once I got the axle back out from under the Jeep.....along the sides I ran 1/8" 6011 at 120 amps, DC, electrode negative and two passes. Although not as smooth as I wish I could do it I believe they got good penetration. I don't think my welder puts out what the dial says but there was no undercutting and I observed good heating of the parts. As for the tubes, I did short passes (about an inch) at four points around each tube at the center section. Hit them immediately with the chipping hammer using quick blows as they cooled to relieve stress. Would appreciate anyone's comments about the technique.
I am curious if anyone can answer a question from their 8.8 experience. I thought I had read that the tubes were pressed in but on my axle there appear to be several plug welds on each side where the housing was drilled and back filled. You can see them in the primer picture above. Is that normal?
 
#30 ·
Today I finally got to do some more of the work on the 8.8. Removed the old axle bearings and seals. Swapped out the pinion races. Set up the pinion for the correct height - it was the same height as the one I removed so set it up with the same thickness shim set, installed and pre-loaded it. Set up the ARB with the new ring gear and bearings. Drilled the housing for the air line. Installed the ARB, pre-loaded using the stock shims that I removed but had to add a bit on the ring side of the diff to and set the backlash. Not a bad afternoon's work........

Improvised bearing puller.....
 

Attachments

#31 ·
And ummm, i dont know if its the picture or not and i hate to be a nazi about it but i would reconsider those welds on those perches
I noticed that as well, looks like a lot of splatter with no penetration. I hope you feel comfortable with the additional passes, but this is certainly one place you don't want a weld failure!

Good job on the puller, a nice bit of ingenuity you used there. I'm jealous of the rear locker, I'd like to add a selectable to the 8.8 to run with the Spartan I picked up for my D30. As far as the plug welds go, every 8.8 I've done had the same plug welds. The first one I converted I simply welded the pumpkin to the tubes with solid .045 MIG wire on a Lincoln Power MIG 255, and never noticed any cracking. However, the one I am doing now, I will be using a nickle rod out of my DC stick machine and will be doing pre/post heat. The thing to remember, you don't need a full circumference of weld bead to keep the tubes from spinning, especially using a 4.3L V6. You can get by with a few short beads, which should control some of the heat, and will be more than enough to hold.
 
#33 ·
I got the axle under the Jeep yesterday. I just need to get a u-joint to adapt the drive shaft to the flange on the 8.8 and a couple quarts of oil. Should be good to go.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top