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Air lockers for a JK

19K views 43 replies 18 participants last post by  yoda13 
#1 ·
I'm getting ready to have new gears and lockers installed in the new JK. I was wanting to get some feedback on what the best lockers are out there for the non rubicon JK. I'm looking for something that will function good on the trail, but will still run well on the road.
 
#2 ·
ARB's air lockers are one of the strongest if not the strongest select-able locker.
 
#3 ·
ARB front and rear lockers in my JKU X. Really happy with them. Not to mention, if you go with air lockers, you will have on board air to air up the tires after wheeling
 
#4 ·
Just in case you don't know, or didn't consider this ; If you use anything other than a selectable locker in the front ( ARB etc. ) you will need to put lock out hubs on or you won't be able to steer on the road.
 
#5 ·
Wait...what?

So all those guys with lunchboxes up front are screwed? :laugh: Or is there some fundamental change to the JK that makes them unable to be used on the road with non-selectable?

Now if you're riding around full time in 4wd...ok. But in 2wd...that makes no sense.
 
#6 ·
ARB air lockers are what I was thinking, but when I looked them up for my stock dana 30 axle all I could find was a locker for 30 spline shafts, so I would have to change shafts. Does anyone know if the make a locker for the stock 27 spline shafts, and where to get it?
 
#8 ·
I've got ARB lockers in my sights. Wait until ARB has a sale (just had one before xmas), where they give away a free diff cover with purchase of a locker (cover retails around $200 and it has a high-mark gear oil fill port, which is really handy for changing diff oil with lifted rigs).;)
 
#10 ·
sickboy357 said:
ARB air lockers are what I was thinking, but when I looked them up for my stock dana 30 axle all I could find was a locker for 30 spline shafts, so I would have to change shafts. Does anyone know if the make a locker for the stock 27 spline shafts, and where to get it?
Arb makes a d30 27 spline for the JK, that's what I have in mine. I bought mine from Rebel offroad. I also went with RCV shafts in the front
 
#22 ·
I have a question about this... well about lockers in general... I'm also looking to lock my front end up and looking at the Auto Lockers (Detroit, Eaton, or Aussie) I do live in PA but I'm about to move to Texas so ice and snow aren't going to be a problem. Here are the questions:

1) Which brand for auto locking is better? Any ones I should stay away from?

2) Do I still have to put new shafts in if I'm installing these types of lockers?

3) Was there a manufaturing change in the JK models that make lockers for the JKU more expensive/different? (Reference to the Next Generation Dana??)

3)If the top two qustions don't apply and I get a selectable locker (i.e. - ARB, etc.) Would it be better to get the factory lockers offered in the Rubi's or go with an aftermarket part?

Stats: I'm running a '08 JKU with the D30 in the front. D44 in the rear with the LSD. I do moderate trail running and limited rock climbing (mostly because I feel like I need more traction up front). It's not my daily driver right now but when I move to Texas it might become it so I don't want something that's going to effect performance on the blacktop (which no locker should if in 2HI...right?) running 305/65/r17 and not looking to go bigger because of the daily driver stand point and gas prices.

Any help would be great!

Thanks!
 
#12 ·
I always see threads like this and nobody really discusses the actual air compressor. Does ARB offer a kit that provides any savings on purchasing it all from them? Is it worth it to spend extra money and get HD OBA that can be cross-functional beyond just actuating the locker? What do most people do?


I'm hoping this is relevant to the OP since it sounds like he's going the ARB route.
 
#18 ·
I always see threads like this and nobody really discusses the actual air compressor. Does ARB offer a kit that provides any savings on purchasing it all from them? Is it worth it to spend extra money and get HD OBA that can be cross-functional beyond just actuating the locker? What do most people do?

I'm hoping this is relevant to the OP since it sounds like he's going the ARB route.
OK - Here's the deal with the air compressor: a PROPERLY installed ARB locker (with no leaks) consumes little-to-no air. The pressure of the air system (I believe that ARB requires 85-95 PSI) engages the locker via an electric solenoid (for you laymen that's an electric valve that opens when you flick the switch on). ARB sells air compressors that provide suitable pressure to engage your lockers, but they would be practically useless if anything else were connected to your air system because they can't produce the air volume.

If you want to use air for blowing up a tire, using an air impact wrench, or scaring the crap out of people with your air horn (ie. high volume applications), then get a full stand-alone air system with a +2 gallon tank. The tank acts as a reservoir or "air battery" to provide a stream of air for horns, tire filling, etc. without running the crap out of your air compressor.

I highly recommend reading Oldballz air system install, which is my personal inspiration - do a search on the forums and read closely!:2thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
I had won a $200 gift card to 4wd hardware that I used to by my arb compressor, so it only cost $63 :)
I went with the arb only because I figured it would work best with their setup. I also use it to air up the 35s.
If you have an sPOD, John has a harness that adapts the arb setup as well.
 
#15 ·
Arb makes a d30 27 spline for the JK, that's what I have in mine. I bought mine from Rebel offroad. I also went with RCV shafts in the front
ARB lockers front and back on mine. Northridge is were I got'em. Just make sure who ever installs them, reads the directions and does it right the first time!
Thanks, I'll check both these out and see what I can get!!!
 
#16 ·
I've had ARB's on my TJ for 7 years now with no issues. If I ever have problems with the factory lockers in my JK's I will replace them them with ARB's. Selectable lockers are the only way to go if you do any street driving. Check out http://northridge4x4.com/
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
#23 ·
Any time the fronts are locked you WILL have difficulty getting it to turn (understeer). On soft pack (gravel or dirt roads), Ice, snow or rain - this can be very problematic if not downright dangerous. For this reason I would not recommend constant and even recommend less auto locking front such as detroit style ratchets, or eatons.

If you ONLY drive off road - then auto locking is a very viable option. But on highway anytime torque is applied they are locked, when torque is removed they are unlocked. Imagine turning a corner and accelerating at the same time - something we do all the time on the road. The vehicle with auto locks would then lock, understeer and require turning the steering wheel further to get the same turn radius. Now a kid jumps out in front of you and you come off the throttle real quick. Suddenly and unpredictably all that extra steering input to overcome the understeer becomes way too much input as the axle unlocks - and you get a massive amount of oversteer. You can NOT react fast enough to be smooth in recovery. You will only have prayer and faith in god to see you through safely changing all these driver inputs and avoid a catastrophe! And unless you are measuring the co-efficient of friction between the tire and road on a minute to minute and inch to inch basis - it will always be unpredictable how much understeer you will actually see while locked.

Auto locking rears is not as big an issue because locking rears does not CREATE understeer - it merely makes the understeer already in the front geometry more pronounced. Locked fronts CREATES more (as much as three times) understeer on top of what is already there.
 
#24 ·
Any time the fronts are locked you WILL have difficulty getting it to turn (understeer). On soft pack (gravel or dirt roads), Ice, snow or rain - this can be very problematic if not downright dangerous. For this reason I would not recommend constant and even recommend less auto locking front such as detroit style ratchets, or eatons.

If you ONLY drive off road - then auto locking is a very viable option. But on highway anytime torque is applied they are locked, when torque is removed they are unlocked. Imagine turning a corner and accelerating at the same time - something we do all the time on the road. The vehicle with auto locks would then lock, understeer and require turning the steering wheel further to get the same turn radius. Now a kid jumps out in front of you and you come off the throttle real quick. Suddenly and unpredictably all that extra steering input to overcome the understeer becomes way too much input as the axle unlocks - and you get a massive amount of oversteer. You can NOT react fast enough to be smooth in recovery. You will only have prayer and faith in god to see you through safely changing all these driver inputs and avoid a catastrophe! And unless you are measuring the co-efficient of friction between the tire and road on a minute to minute and inch to inch basis - it will always be unpredictable how much understeer you will actually see while locked.
But this is only if on pavement and if driving while in 4WD? Correct? I'll be in 2WD 99.89% while on black top so this shouldn't be an issue..or do the lockers lock in 2WD('I'm under the assumption they are not locking in 2WD)?

I completely understand that Oversteer/Understeer is a huge issue with these on snow packed roads but honestly the median tempature where I'm moving in 2-3 months is 70 degrees year round and the winter is leaving here in PA (or lack there of all together this year)...aka I shouldn't need 4WD unless running off road, and that should eliminate most of the fear of running over some small child in the middle of the road....If not; I'm screwed because I'm not smart enought to measure any co-efficent...yeah....

Don't get me wrong I love selectable lockers but they're just not in the budget right now. This would be a means to a better locker but still give me the traction I need where/when I need it.

Taking that into concideration, thoughts?
 
#26 ·
if you go arb then use their most compact unit to activate them and have that dedicated. use another pump or co2 tank for tires. many of us have gone through a lot of locker and actuating combinations and this tends to be the best.
 
#29 ·
Yes on that - I have seen folks struggling on the trail due to an all purpose air setup rather than utility air and locker air being separate.
 
#32 ·
I appreciate everyones advice... I wanted to get back to some of my OP though.

I'm assuming (yes I kow what happens when I assume), that I'll never need 4WD on black top...ever. And with that assumption, Autolockers could be a "viable option". Correct?

Like stated earlier, I have nothing against selectable lockers...they're just not in the budget right now. By the time I run Rubicon trail (Moab, or any other great trails) I'll have the selectable but for now the trails I'm going to run require locking maybe 50% of the time...at best. So I don't want my daily to run like a purpose built rig...just be dependable enough to enjoy it on the very occasional run and have traction that I can rely on. I don't think I would mind the "wratcheting sound" some people get when turning sharp...it's part of the auto locker and I'm okay with that.

With that assumption, and knowing the above, and knowing selectable isn't an option how do people feel about auto lockers? If I'm installing a autolocker do I need to replace the shafts as well? Which ones have people had, replaced, never use again? I'm leaning towards Eaton or Aussie.

Thoughts?
 
#33 ·
Like stated earlier, I have nothing against selectable lockers...they're just not in the budget right now.
It's hard to give good advice at this point. It's almost like you're saying, "I want to have sex, but don't want to get her pregnant. I can't afford condoms, so for now I just want to use Saran Wrap. What brand would you recommend?"

Well, if you're married and have a reasonable income, I'd tell you that one brand is as good as any other. But if you're a football player and you don't want nine alimony payments, I'm going to tell you that a condom is relatively cheap. As such, I'll tell you that it's cheaper to do it right the first time with selectable lockers. But if you want to use Saran Wrap, that's okay too, as long as you're okay paying alimony down the road.
 
#35 ·
Why not just put a selectable locker in the rear for now since the rear axle is the strongest? Also, since this is a daily driver, a selectable locker is more suited for that purpose than an automatic locker.
 
#37 ·
So, what happens with air lockers if the compressor fails? My compressor is suddenly kaput...I don't have my air locker installed in the rear yet...what if that had happened to my ARB air compressor out on the trail?
 
#44 ·
OK, now I got you...I didn't want to be out on the trail, have my air fail and not be able to unlock my locker...this makes sense, but all things in life do not make sense...:tea:
 
#43 ·
aggieslaughter said:
I have a question about this... well about lockers in general... I'm also looking to lock my front end up and looking at the Auto Lockers (Detroit, Eaton, or Aussie) I do live in PA but I'm about to move to Texas so ice and snow aren't going to be a problem. Here are the questions:

1) Which brand for auto locking is better? Any ones I should stay away from?

2) Do I still have to put new shafts in if I'm installing these types of lockers?

3) Was there a manufaturing change in the JK models that make lockers for the JKU more expensive/different? (Reference to the Next Generation Dana??)

3)If the top two qustions don't apply and I get a selectable locker (i.e. - ARB, etc.) Would it be better to get the factory lockers offered in the Rubi's or go with an aftermarket part?

Stats: I'm running a '08 JKU with the D30 in the front. D44 in the rear with the LSD. I do moderate trail running and limited rock climbing (mostly because I feel like I need more traction up front). It's not my daily driver right now but when I move to Texas it might become it so I don't want something that's going to effect performance on the blacktop (which no locker should if in 2HI...right?) running 305/65/r17 and not looking to go bigger because of the daily driver stand point and gas prices.

Any help would be great!

Thanks!
1) not sure about that one, research product reviews for help with brand.

2)you wouldn't have to put new shafts in as long as the spline count doesn't change, that's more of a "while I'm in here" type of thing :)

3) jk/JKU or next generation dana's do have differences in them from the prior housings ie: TJ d44 carrier will not work in jk and vice versa

4) with mods to the rear d44, you could put factory rubi locker in, but you will have to get a rubi d44 or prorock 44 front to put rubi front locker in. If you went arb or other aftermarket lockers in, you can use your current housings. I recommend beefing up the front stock d30/d44 tubes and c gussets.

I have: 08 JKU X with d30 front; evo sleeves, c gussets, arb/ 4.88 and rcv shafts.
Rear d44; arb/4.88 and stock shafts.
Coast front DS and stock read DS all on 35-12.5-17 nitto Mudgrapplers and spend a lot of time at Badlands offroad park in Attica, IN
Plus it gets me to work daily :)
 
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